Overview of the Most Important Ascents

Rabštejn, 1947   |  Rabstejn, 1947
Hindúkuš, 1965  |  Hindu Kush, 1965
JG_Strona_19d
JG_Strona_19b

High Tatras

 

1955
Climbed the main ridge of High Tatras in winter, from Kopské Sedlo to Kriváň, national team

1956
Svišťový Peak, center North wall, first ascent, V-VI grade. Co-climber: František Pašta

1964
Vysoká, right part of the North wall, first ascent, V-VI grade. Co-climbers: A. Lowak, Miloš Turek and Jiří Valter

 

Alps

1955
Mont Blanc (4,807 m), Peuterey Ridge

1982
Triglav, German route

1990
Grossglockner (3,792 m)

1991
Monte Rosa (4,634 m)

1993
Matterhorn
(4,477 m), Zmuttgrat

2006
Mont Blanc (4,807 m)

 

Caucasus Mountains

 

1958
Elbrus
(5,642 m)
1959
Ušba
, North Peak (4,696 m), first ascent by the route along the pillar to the right of the cross in the northwest wall to the saddle between the two peaks. Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída

 

1961
Mt. Germogenov
a (3,993 m), Southeast Ridge. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída, Miroslav Jaškovský and Jiří Valtr

Ullu-Kara (4,302 m), North wall, first ascent. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída and Miroslav Jaškovský

Jantugan (3,991 m), North wall, first ascent. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída and Miroslav Jaškovský and Jiří Valtr

 

1961
Donguzorun
(4,468 m), Northeast wall, alternative route at top. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída, Miroslav Jaškovský and Jiří Valtr

 

1962
Mizhirgi – Eastern peak
(4,927 m), Northern pillar. Co-climbers: Miroslav Jaškovský, Miloš Turek, Ivan Gálfy and Ivan Urbanovič

Janga-Tau (5,051 m), Northeast pillar. Co-climbers: Miroslav Jaškovský, Miloš Turek, František Pašta, Ivan Gálfy and Ivan Urbanovič

 

1983
Ushba, South Peak (4,710 m), Schuster’s route. Co-climbers: Ruth Červinková, Milan Pekař

 

1985
Tetnuld
(5,000 m), Successful expedition of the Vrchlabi Club

 

Tien Shan

 

 

1990
Khan Tengri
(6,995 m), Expedition members: Miroslav Šmíd,
Ivo Wondráček, Milan Novotný, (Jan Červinka – 6,450 m)

 

Hindu Kush

 

1965
First Czechoslovak Expedition Hindu Kush Mountains, Afghanistan
8 first ascents, eg. Koh-e-Ariana, Koh-e-Barfy, Koh-e-IAMES, Koh-e-Quala Panja and Koh-e-Werich
Czechoslovak climbers reached 17 previously unclimbed peaks, 7 exceeding 6,000 m. Expedition members: Vladimír Šedivý – leader, Rudolf Antoníček, Jan Červinka, Ivan Gálfy, Miroslav Jaškovský, Radovan Kuchař, Miloš Matras, Jozef Psotka, Ivan Urbanovič, Jaromír Wolf – doctor, Vilém Heckel – photographer, Bedřich Roger – Filmmaker, Milan Daniel – scientific researcher

 

1967
Second Czechoslovak Expedition Hindu Kush Mountains, Pakistan

Dir Zom (6,875 m), first ascent, Aghar Zom (6,230 m), first ascent Tirich Mir, main peak (7,706 m), Czechoslovak altitude record. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída, Ivan Gálfy, Ivan Urbanovič, Miroslav Jaškovský, Tirich Mir, western peak (7,487 m), first ascent. Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída, Ivan Gálfy, Ivan Urbanovič.

Expedition to Tirich Mir. Achieved 2 ascents to the main peak of Tirich Mir and first ascent to the virgin peak of Tirich West 1. Expedition members: Vladimír Šedivý – head, Jan Červinka, Ivan Gálfy, Miroslav Jaškovský, Ivan Urbanovič, Pavel Rödl, Milan Daniel, Vlastimil Šmída, Oldřichb Mikšík, Vilém Heckel, Zdeněk Vlč, Bedřich Roger and Jiří Mašek.

 

Karakorum

 

1970
Olomouc Expedition to Pákistán – Karakorum Mountains

Haramosh II (Mani II, 6,750 m), Expedition members: Jan Červinka,
Michal Orolín, Josef Kývala, Dina Štěrbová, Otakar Štěrba, Tomáš
Pračke, Miroslav Štětina, Vladimír Vacata

 

Himalayas

 

1973
Czechoslovak Climbing Expedition to Makalu
(8,482 m)
Expedition members attempted first ascent of Makalu along the southwest pillar of the southern peak, reached 7,950 m. Expedition members: Ivan Gálfy – head, Jaromír Wolf, Zdeněk Brabec, Jan Červinka, Ivan Fiala, Miloslav Filip, Miloslav Neumann, Jan Kounický, Milan Kriššák, Michal Orolín, Leopold Páleníček, Jozef Psotka, Karel Procházka, Petr Sirotek, Česlav Wojcík, Ĺudovít Zahoranský, Milan Šimunič, Milan Daniel – zoologist, Jan Kalvoda – geologist.

 

1976
Czechoslovak Climbing Expedition to Makalu
(8,482 m)
Member of successful expedition, first ascent along the southwest pillar of the south peak to the South Summit of Makalu (8,010 m). The main peak was reached by Milan Kriššák, Karel Schubert and Jorge Camprubi (Spain). Expedition members: Ivan Gálfy – head, Jaromír Wolf, Leoš Chládek, Zdeněk Brabec, Jan Červinka, Ivan Fiala, Milan Kriššák, Miloslav Neumann, Igor Novák, Michal Orolín, Leopold Páleníček, Miroslav Pelc, Vladimír Petrík, Jozef Psotka, Karel Schubert, Sylva Talla, František Dostál, Vladimír Ondruš.

 

1979
Krkonoše Scientific and Climbing Expedition to Nepal

Northern Manaslu (7,157 m), first ascent along the North Ridge. Co-climber: Otakar Srovnal, and summit reached also by Vladimír Krupička and Miroslav Novotný. Expedition members: Vladimír Krupička – head, Blahoslav Braun, Jan Červinka, Tomáš Filka, Jan Kynčl, Miroslav Novotný, Otakar Srovnal, Stanislav Šafář, Milan Rusý and Jan Štursa

 

1987
Film Expedition to Nepal – Sagarmatha – Everest

Mt. Everest (8,848 m), individual ascent under the South Saddle 7,750 m

 

North America – Alaska

 

1994
Mt. McKinley – Denali
(6,194 m), route via the Muldrow Glacier. Co-climbers: Milan Novotný and Ivo Wondráček

 

South America – Andes

1996/97
Aconcagua
(6,959 m), Argentina – Chile
Attempt to ascend Fitz Roy (3,440 m), Co-climbers: Vlastimil Šmída, Milan Novotný, Ivan Václavek

2000
Incahuasi
(6,601 m), Argentina (Argentine-Czech expedition). Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída

Ojos del Salado (6,885 m), Argentina, Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída

2002
Chimborazo
(6,310 m), Ecuador, Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída
Cotopaxi (5,897 m), Ecuador, Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída
Nevado Pisco (5,752 m), Peru, Co-climber: Vlastimil Šmída